PAROS - The perfect balance…
So this begins my odyssey, through a small part of the Cyclades, home to some of the best food, beaches, weather and people in the world. We start our adventure in my favourite island (so far)….Paros.
To set the tone and expectations, I would like to outline that being thrifty is my take on travelling, don’t get me wrong I am more than happy to splash cash on luxuries occasionally but travelling for me and the average joe shouldn’t leave you penniless on return…if you do return that is! So if top-end luxury holidays is what you are looking for then I would just like to give you a heads up that this may not be the place for you, but if you hold on I might be able to point you towards some experiences that fill your soul whilst ensuring you don’t break the bank….otherwise, how are you supposed to pay for the next adventure.
Paros is frankly…magical. The moment that ferry door drops down it’s as if Aphrodite herself has welcomed you home. Laying eyes 0n the windmill planted in front of the port (which is secretly a tourist information spot) was a welcome sight after a pretty lumpy voyage from Athens; my ferry was about 40 minutes late due to the seas but the taxi that was arranged to pick me up was more than happy to wait and greeted me with typical Greek charm. The island itself is a blend of life, there are beaches for everyone, some lined with beach clubs and sunbeds in the northern and western parts of the island, to the tranquil desolate ones in the eastern and southern areas. I stayed and spent most of my time in the northern part of the island in Naoussa, this in my opinion is THE place to stay on your first visit to the island. Naoussa felt like the heartbeat for Paros, it’s lined with stunning whitewashed streets and has small shops snugged into the walls and corners of the town. These range from upmarket boutiques selling clothes, sunglasses or jewellery, to modest craft shops where the locals are selling handmade trinkets, souvenirs and again jewellery - you can really leave Greece with a plethora of bling. There a number of places to rent a Car, ATV or scooter and there are plenty of hotels and Airbnbs to choose from; below is where I set up camp for my 5-day stay and frankly you won’t go amiss!
The main centre of Naoussa town is built for one thing and one thing only, eating and drinking. Restaurants, bars and gyros joints line the main high street, so trust me you won’t be short of somewhere to sit down and grab a bite; I will put some recommendations below of some of my favourites to try. As you head down the high street you will meet the harbour and the seafront eateries and bars, the views from which are stunning, especially during the sunset. These are steep in price due to the location so if you are willing to pay more then go for it! Most famously, due to viral napkin spinning, Barbarossa resides at the end of the harbour, but be ready during the mid and high seasons for a hefty wait, busy service and a decent sized bill. Word on the street is that it’s slightly overrated. For me, especially after a day of travelling or exploring the island, nothing beats a Mamos and Gyros for 4.50€; Allas at the upper end of the main street is a must, their pork souvlaki wrap is very hard to beat and the service is very friendly. I’d recommend taking a morning exploring the town, go grab a freddo espresso from Chill N Bites and then lose yourself down the many branches of streets and pristine alleyways, you may actually get lost but that’s the fun of the place. If you are feeling athletic you can finish your morning by trying to climb the Venetian Castle at the very tip of the harbour wall, you can get a killer shot of the town from here, just make sure you’ve got some appropriate footwear on.
As a note, like most Greek towns, Paros comes alive at night so the morning time is best to explore Naoussa if you don’t want the crowds, the only catch is that some of the shops won’t be open; there is still plenty to find! Most people head down for the sunset in the PM, a very inexpensive way to experience this is to go to one of the local mini markets and grab a few drinks, head up to Naoussa’s New Bridge at the end of the main street looking over the harbour where you can sit, enjoy something cold and watch the sun dip below the horizon; the colours that beam across the waterfront through the sails of fishing boats and dreamy yachts are beyond description, it’s also a fantastic place to people watch and soak in the town. Alternatively, you can head over to Come Back, an energetic little bar with seats and tables directly on the waterfront for you to enjoy a sunset cocktail. One of my favourite places to visit in the evening and a must to go to is To Takimi, a restaurant and bar with a warm atmosphere and laid back vibes, if I’m honest I did not eat here. There are a few high barrels placed outside for you to sit and drink at (and drink I did) whilst watching the world go by or whilst listening to the local old boys catch up over cigars. Their wine is fantastic and they make a mean mojito, the service is also outstanding and very kind which drove me to go back more than once. I tipped well here and that’s something to be aware of. Tipping here is customary, a usual tip sits from 5-15% depending on how generous you are feeling. Having worked in hospitality I understand the struggle so I’m usually pretty heavy handed. You can end your night with a box of outrageously delicious loukoumades from To Paradosiako or Secret Street Food - sweet, sticky, and just the right kind of indulgent before the stroll (or wobble) back home. I could go on and on about this town, all you need to know is that it should be the first place on your list when coming to Paros.
When it comes to the rest of the island, you have a number of areas to discover. If you truly want to explore then I highly recommend renting some transport, the bus services are very good but don’t necessarily give you the freedom and taxis are pricey. If it’s just you or a group of friends then ATVs and scooters are the way forward, if you want a bit more security or you’re travelling with a family then go for a car but these are a little more expensive. I went for an ATV, this cost roughly £40/day, prices vary depending on the season, as you can expect the high season is the priciest. I went in the crossover from mid-high season (June-July). The little 50cc quad did me perfect, although it did struggle on some of the steep hills so if you want a bit more power then spend a bit a more. Through this I was able to go and explore some of the more quieter towns; Lefkes in the centre of the island is a peaceful little village of narrow marbled alleyways and Cycladic charm that was once the capital of Paros during the middle ages. It’s built across the verges of a stunning valley, as you enter the village you’ll find Ramnos Café which serves some of the best coffee in Paros and provides a great viewpoint of the whole village. The Church of the Agia Triada sits at the base of the valley and is a perfect photo op; the courtyard outside is picturesque, adorned with bougainvillea. I wandered Lefkes for the morning stumbling across a wonderful little shop selling handmade treasures crafted by the locals. I finished up by grabbing some cinnamon bites from the local bakery and sitting in the square as the resident cats weaved through my legs Apparently Lefkes was built here way back to hide it from pirates…but there is no need to hide this place now and rightly so. Things are slow here and Lefkes acts as a soulful pause during your trip.
A 20 minute ride from Naoussa to the west of the island is the now capital, Parikia. This is where your ferry will arrive, you’ll come across some chaos on the main road leading into the port, particularly if the boats are coming in/out. If you can dodge the taxis and newly rented ATVs then I would recommended taking an afternoon to actually see the town (if you aren’t using it as your base). The town welcomes new travellers and offers seafood restaurants, bites of history and numerous coffee spots to sit and relax. If you have an itch for Greek history, The Panagia Ekatontapiliani church is based just off from the port, this was the first thing my taxi driver pointed out on arrival to the island, understandably so as the thing was built way back in the 4th century and is pretty impressive. The promenade has a variety of places to eat, I sat down at Mana Kouzina for lunch, their fired zucchini is very moreish and the staff were great at recommending places to go on the island; the view out-front into the Aegean makes the food taste even better. Like Naoussa, the place comes alive in the evening and the waterfront promenade becomes an avenue of music and golden light, I didn’t spend much time in Parikia but its liveliness is enchanting .
Paros is a wealth of idyllic towns, villages and harbours but if you are more of a beach soul like myself, then as mentioned, there are a variety of sandy vistas for you to chill out at, approximately 60km worth in total…again…according to my taxi driver. I’ll list below my suggestions; one just up the road from Lefkes, which I haven’t been able to get out of my head since returning, is Tsoukalia. This is off the beaten track which means one thing, complete peace and quiet. Similar to other Greek beaches pebbles are scattered across the beach which come in handy when the winds are up to pin down your towel or blanket to stop it flying off into the Aegean. The place is barren, it felt like being on a different planet with no signs of life. I did spend an extra 30 frantic minutes here combing the sand after I lost my chain whilst changing, quite literally a needle in a haystack! The thing isn’t expensive but it means a lot to me so luckily I raked my hands in just the right spot and pulled it from the dunes. It’s the perfect place to switch off for an afternoon, so if you’re up for going on an expedition to a far off land, this one is a stunner.
On my final day, I headed back down to Parikia and got the ferry to Antiparos. The quickest ferries to Antiparos are from The Port of Pounta (or Pounda). These take about 7 minutes and cost 1.50€, but I had sadly taken my ATV back by this point and the bus times down to the Pounta were a little tricky, so decided on the longer 30 minute ferry from the port in Parikia which only comes a few times a day; it costs 7€ and leaves just to the right of the main port, I’ll leave a link to details for both below. The longer trip goes by in a flash, just enjoy the ocean spray and random fisherman beating octopus against the rocks, supposedly to expel water and tenderise it after catching. As the ferry pulls into Antiparos you are welcomed by the scenic harbour and kite surfers zipping around the channel like flies between the two islands. Getting off the boat I recommend wandering the main village that hums relaxed vibes and slow living. Similar to that of its larger counterpart, Antiparos is a maze of charming streets and nooks, so you can take your time to comb the local shops and cafes. I recommend heading to Grillhouse: To Ntopio in the heart of the village for a quick gyros; it’s very affordable, very tasty and the lads that work in there are awesome. After grabbing some fruit from a local mini market, I headed shortly south of the main village to Psaraliki beach. With its crystal clear water and shady trees, it’s up there with one of my favourites beaches on the island(s). I got comfy with the locals and other beach goers as the shade is prime real estate when you want a break from the Cycladic sun but everyone is on the same page and very friendly. After lounging for a few hours on the beach I headed back to Paros on the shorter ferry and took a couple buses back through the island hills to Naoussa. Antiparos is cheaper and slightly more intimate than its big sister, I only spent half a day on it but it was enough for me to know that I want to go back and explore more for much, much longer.
For me, Paros is the perfect equilibrium of hustle and bustle and serenity. It’s an island that you could spend a month on and still only scratch the surface. From the charismatic villages, to the jaw-dropping beaches, the little chunks of history and welcoming locals; it entices you not just to visit but to return. That is exactly what I plan to do, its intoxicating.
Thank you Paros, you have my heart.
Accomodation
My Airbnb was superb. Mamma Mia-esque, right on the water for you take a morning dip or cool off after a busy day exploring the island. ‘Bocamviglies By the Sea’ is also 100 yards from Agioi Anargyri beach and a breezy 10 minute walk into the centre of town. Maria and her colleagues are wonderful; her friend Yolanda welcomed me with open arms and I loved our small exchanges in my very poor Greek. They are really useful at getting you to grips with the island and local area. Maria was also the person who arranged the taxi from the port when I arrived on the island which was a god sent after a long day of travel. My room was very clean with air conditioning, plus the breakfasts that are included with your stay set you up fantastically for the day ahead, I couldn’t recommend this place more! Below is the link to their website but you can also find them on Airbnb:
https://www.bocamvigliesrooms.com/
Getting Around
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The buses are great, most have AC which is a saviour and they are very affordable costing 2-2.50€ depending on where you are going. You can get tickets at the small offices or on the bus if you are getting on midway through a route.
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I couldn’t recommend these guys higher, really professional, friendly and informative. Easy booking system and affordable, they also give you a quick lesson if you’ve not driven an ATV or Scooter before:
ML Paros
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There are taxi services across the island. Uber does work here but it’s hit and miss. There is another service called Aegean Taxi who have their own app which I’d advise. You can also go directly to Paros Taxi Karousos who have pretty good reviews. There are taxi ranks in some of the towns and you can hail them down if they’re free. Taxis aren’t the most affordable option, they can range from 20-40€ (and upwards) depending on where you’re going but on the odd occasion can be very useful:
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As promised, here are the timetables for the two ferries to Antiparos. The ferry from Pounta Port runs into the early hours of the morning in the summer months so if you want to REALLY enjoy the island you’ve got plenty of time:
BEACHES
Here’s the list that really matters, these are just a few of my suggestions, please go on your own expeditions and find your favourites:
Kolympethres
Lageri + Dionisos (as a heads up, you can occasionally come across a nudist or two at these)
Santa Maria
Tsoukalia
Golden Beach/Chryssi Akti
Monastiri
Kalogeros
Psaraliki (Antiparos)
At some of these, be prepared to make a mad dash out of the water to shift your stuff further up the beach after one of the high-speed ferries goes past…I’ll let you find out for yourself.
Eating & Drinking
Food and drink is a personal preference but start with some of these great places and see what hits the spot:
To Takimi (Naoussa) - Everything you’ll ever want…and wine.
Allas Souvlaki & More (Naoussa) - Great gyros and friendly staff.
Yemeni (Naoussa) - Rustic food and another great wine spot.
Pita Frank (Naoussa) - Big portions and easy tasty food.
Greco (Parikia) - Fresh lunch spot right on the waterfront.
Mana Kouzina (Parikia) - Affordable and cheerful with a great view.
Come Back (Naoussa) - Sunset cocktails on the water.
Sweet Smelling Kitchen (Lefkes) – I didn’t get to experience this due to time, but I beg you, go and check this out.
Piso Livadi Bakery – A tiny little place that serves delicious spanakopita and bougatsa with welcoming staff.
I hope to return to the island someday—to wander farther south and create a part two of this adventure. For now, I’ll be dreaming of golden sunsets and chilled wine as I plot my way back. With any luck, this glimpse into Paros has sparked something in you too. If you're planning your own escape or you’re already soaking in the magic there (in which case, I’m very envious) I can’t wait for you to experience it in full.
Thanks for taking a moment to discover a little more about this unforgettable place.
Until the next journey.
M.
