Milos - When the captain says drink, you drink…
The 3rd and final island of my odyssey is one with increasing popularity, social media playing a large part in the uptick. It’s an island that has always been on my bucket list and sat here on a rainy Sunday looking back at my time moseying around this spectacular portion of land wedged into the corner of The Cyclades, it’s possible I’ve managed to just reset my need to see it again. Sit back, make yourself a drink and enjoy this slightly longer post than usual (for good reason)….this is Milos.
Arriving into Milos, as you hop off the ferry, you’ll find Adamas (or Adamantas). This is the main port town of the island and hub for visitors. I took the slow ferry from Sifnos to get here, the cheaper option costing roughly €18, it took just over an hour to reach Milos. The fact that my ferry was ambling along the Aegean and taking its merry time meant that as I approached the port I got to gaze at the fishing villages dotted along the coastline and recon for the days ahead from the open deck, a luxury not afforded to the high-speed counterparts. Adamas is buzzing from the offset, families, backpackers and locals pinging around the harbour front. I headed right and set off for my Airbnb which was only a 10 minute walk from the centre of town. On my way up, I stopped off at ‘Nicki Motors’, a couple streets back from the waterfront, to sort myself an ATV for my trip. Nicki is great and she priced up an ATV at €40 per day, I’d planned to pick it up for the following morning so she reserved one there and then. She was so accommodating that when the card machine wouldn’t work (which is a common occurrence on the islands) she simply let me have the ATV and told me to pay when I brought it back…trust on another level. I’ll leave the details for Nicki Motors below, please use them. After a sweaty trek up to my Airbnb I arrived at my base, a little place called Miloessa where I was greeted by the lovely Despina and the two stray kittens she had adopted, Stelios and Stella, these became frequent visitors of my little apartment. Despina talked me through my digs and a little about the island and then left me to have a very cold shower before I headed into Adamas for the evening.
Adamas is a great base to work from if it’s your first time on the island. There are a number of places for vehicle hire, which is a must if you really want to see Milos. The waterfront is lined with restaurants, all with their own quirks and character, some sitting you so close to the water that you can almost dip your toe in as you enjoy your meal. A killer place to grab a quick bite is Gyros of Milos, super friendly staff, affordable and great tasting gyros – they also do a one litre carafe of house wine for €10 which means you can easily spend an evening watching the world go by; this was exactly what I did on my first night. I’ll leave a list of recommendations below of some more places to stuff your face. Speaking of which, bakeries and cafes are scattered throughout the town as well – Artemis Bakery is a joint you need to check out, their display is a blur of sugary delight, I would go for the huge sugared donuts with of course…a freddo espresso. There are several more cocktail bars for evening drinks and charming shops tucked away in the maze of streets just back from the harbourside, selling souvenirs and some amazing handcrafted jewellery. Adamas is the nucleus of movement for the island, everyone and everything is always on the go here, whether it be the people, the busy eateries or the boats setting off to explore the coast, you just get the feeling that Adamas wants you to go and discover more of the island.
Through the use of my ‘free for now’ ATV I headed off to explore the island the next day. You can head in any direction here and wind up somewhere amazing so please don’t follow my journey as gospel, there is still so much more I would have loved to have seen with more time. I decided to go north up the coastline to find some of the spots I’d eyed up on my arrival. First stop was Klima, a peaceful fishing village located on the eastern side of Milos’ caldera just at the mouth. To get to Klima you have to head down a rather large hill off from the local town of Trypiti, you could walk it if you’re brave but a car, scooter or ATV is probably a wise choice. The population of Klima is roughly twenty, no including the local cats. I had researched Klima before heading to Greece and seeing it with my own eyes instead of through the screen of my phone was breathtaking – it encapsulates the word picturesque. Age old boathouses line the waterfront, the front doors a mosaic of different colours inserted into the cliff side. Several of these are also on Airbnb but can be pricey due to the location...I reckon I’ll treat myself to one of the at some point in the future because…wow! You can wander to the end of the harbour to the right and dip your feet in the Aegean whilst you look out into the vastness, waves lapping below you and the scent of drying seaweed wafting across the bay. You can also stop off at Pliatsiko, a wonderful art and jewellery shop selling some really unique pieces from local artists, the owner is really friendly and the Greek jungle he had playing in the shop kept me there for longer – one of his clay jellyfish made it home and now hangs in the corner of my place, a reminder of this great village. You can also head left when you arrive at Klima and find a very small, not so much a beach, sandy spot to chill out and take a dip. There is Astakas Cafe Restaurant for a bite to eat and some drinks if you need something, if you want to save a bit grab some food from your local mini market before heading down. After filling up my camera roll for the 14th time I left Klima and headed back up the hill squeezing as much out of my 125cc engine as possible.
Before proceeding to my next location I stopped off for a quick history lesson; Milos is the original home of the Venus de Milo, depicting the Greek goddess Aphrodite, the actual statue now lives in the Louvre in Paris but there is a remake located between Klima and Trypiti next to the Catacombs of Milos – I chose to stay above ground, the Catacombs are very interesting and cost around €10 for entry but just weren’t in my plans. I decided to see the goddess of love and beauty and then also check out the Ancient Theatre of Milos. Both of which are free to do with free parking and I recommend seeing them, the marble theatre is quite a sight and has slowly been excavated and restored over the past 200 years, it is now used for special performances and events and looks out across the bay – I’ll come back and grab a show hopefully. I soaked in the ancient tales then saddled up to continue my journey to my next spot which is somewhere you HAVE to go to.
Milos is known for some of its stunning beaches, I will list some to check out below, but this one for me took the biscuit and the tin. Further north from Klima is Plathiena Beach, you’ll need a vehicle to get here as well but trust me it’s worth it; after spending an afternoon here I would hitch a ride from a stranger if meant I could get back here. It sits within a small cove cradled by two large cliff faces, meaning the winds are low and the temperatures are high! It’s white sand and crystal clear waters are mind-blowing, there is a reef to the right of the cove if you fancy a snorkel and some sunbeds if you want something a bit comfier. There is one restaurant simply called Foodies Beach Bar ‘Sunrise to Sunset’, a fantastic joint serving some incredible food at good prices and their portion sizes are spot on – I recommend the watermelon salad! I spent the rest of my afternoon baking here under an old tree until my timer went off and I set course back home through the winding roads back to Adamas.
One activity that comes highly recommended for Milos is to take a boat tour around the island to explore the coastline. One unique way to do this is to rent your own little boat. These come at half-day or full-day rates and you need no license to drive them; you get a quick lesson from a skipper and then they send you off to go and discover the unreachable areas of the island…dreamy! I had booked one of these. I splashed the cash a little for this one as they aren’t cheap but it was a treat – costing about €180, fuel price is then added on at the end which can take you up to €210-€220. These boats have a maximum of 4 people usually, so if you have a group or are a couple then you can spread the cost. You get snacks, snorkels and a Bluetooth speaker included. I was really looking forward to screaming around the island as there are several locations that are only accessible by boat. However, Aeolus and Poseidon had other ideas, as the winds picked up and the seas churned the company that I had used messaged through the afternoon before to say that they had to cancel the boat due to the conditions. This was gutting but you obviously can’t trust random strangers with your own boat to not lose control and crash into the rocks or flip the thing completely – this company were great though and refunded everything so I will leave their details below if you are a bit luckier. Plan B then sprang into action. While down in Adamas I wandered into Thalassitra Sailing Travel Agency and asked if they had any last minute boat tours available, assuming that some may head out with a trusty skipper at the helm. Luckily they did, they had a reduced boat tour which was sailing the south of the island, this provided refuge from the strong northern winds. I was told it would be €70 cash, cheaper than their usual rates and the boat would leave the next morning from Paleochori beach in the southwest of the island at 09:45. Done deal.
The next morning I got up early, grabbed a coffee and another donut from Artemis Bakery and belted down to Paleochori. Several other boat tours leave from this location so don’t be put off if you get there and haven’t got a clue which boat is yours, everyone helps each other out. The other captains or guides will point you in the right direction. Thalassitra has two boats that they use for their tours, traditional sailing boats that are replicas of the same boats used back in the early 1900s. One named ‘Thalassitra’ and the other which was mine for the day, the ‘Leloudo’. I hopped in a slightly deflated rib with a tricky outboard and ten or so other people, jetted out to our vessel, climbed aboard and made up camp at the bow of the ship. What followed was not what I expected…in all the right ways. I expected a cutesy, informative tour around the south of the island where the guide talked through the history of the island at each stop, a quick dip in the sea, a Greek salad and then head back in the early afternoon…I couldn’t have been further off. However first, the informative bits. We visited 3 main locations in the south; the famous and secluded Tsigrado beach with its dodgy ladder to get down to, Gerakas beach with its immense cliff faces and the stunning Kleftiko with waters so blue you would think you’re in the Maldives and sea caves to explore for hours. All three of these places were absolutely magical, we stopped off at each to swim and snorkel, diving off from every accessible area of the boat. Drinks were provided (we’ll get to that in a second) and our group were treated to traditional Greek food for lunch such as pastitsio, fava and delicious loukoumades for dessert. I had plenty of time in each location due to the reduced tour so had a chance to soak in the sun on the deck as well whilst the Aegean spray folded over the bow of Leloudo to cool me down. The sights you see on a boat tour are magnificent and will truly make your Milos adventure memorable. Now the even more memorable bit…
As my day on the ship went on I noticed that a large portion of the twenty-ish people onboard were Greek, they got into the spirit of the island very quickly. In particular, three older women who were in their early 60s. These three were the life of the party, as soon as we arrived at Tsigrado the Greek music went on, the drinks started flowing and the dancing began. They danced all the way to Kleftiko and back, they were fabulous – one of them had also perfected the belly-flop off the boat...I was in awe. These three were all that was needed for our Captain, who’s name I think was Dimitrios when I tried to ask, to officially change our quiet little guided tour to a full-blown party tour. The music blared louder and the dancing group grew and when the ouzo came out at Gerakas that was it, it was magnetic, the whole group were at the stern of Leloudo huddled around the three divas taking turns to dance with them as spirits flowed and anise filled the air – our tour guide included. Now I don’t need a drink to dance, but traditional Greek dancing is very specific and something I haven’t attempted before, so on this occasion a couple shots of ouzo were required and just in time as I was dragged into the centre of the ring to dance with one of these lovely ladies. I didn’t have a clue what to do, so tried my very best. I got a loud cheer from the group and then a quick dance lesson from my partner. She simply told me “Stand tall! Stand strong like a tree and I will dance around you...” that was easier enough. We danced, I gave her a big hug, thanked her in broken Greek and helped myself to another drink as the second tray of ouzo came out. This whole time Dimitrios had also been helping himself to his own stash of drinks and he made sure everyone was doing the same – if he told you to take a shot, you took a shot. He danced with everyone, keeping the energy alive throughout our journey, a constant chorus of “Páme!” coming from the helm – at one point he jumped on top of the cabin to dance by himself, yelled and then hurtled himself off the back of the boat – he was brilliant. When I looked down at my watch I realised it was now 5:30pm, we were supposed to be back at Paleochori by 4:30pm. I didn’t care much and neither did the others, I had no evening reservations, so we finished the ouzo – I wound it down as I had to get my ATV home and I didn’t fancy sending it off a cliffside with me attached.
The trip back to Paleochori included more dancing, a race with another sailboat (which we won) and Dimitrios consistently sounding the boats horn in every cove and harbour we went past – he sounded it for a solid 60 seconds on our arrival back to Paleochori just so everyone knew that we were the ones who had the best time…and that we did. As a note, I hadn’t actually paid for the tour at this point and it wasn’t until we made land that I handed over some cash to the supposed captain of the sister boat, Thalassitra. I trusted her to give it to my guide, who I am pretty sure wouldn’t have asked if I just walked off but it was undeniably worth the money. I hopped back on my ATV with a huge smile on my face, sun-kissed shoulders and took a very leisurely ride back to Miloessa. If you can only do one thing when you come to Milos, please choose this; any boat tour is great but Thalassitra do it the right way…the Greek way – I’ll leave their details below for you to look at.
One place I highly recommend you tick off during your trip is Sarakiniko, otherwise known as ‘The Moon Beach’. This was included in my final day on the island and I definitely left the best until last. The ‘beach’ is located in the north of the island and was only a 12 minute ride from my apartment – I advise getting here early to avoid the bus loads of tour groups that appear in the later morning. If you can peel yourself out of bed you can even get here for the most stunning sunrise. As you take the track down to Sarakiniko you realise that you haven’t arrived at a beach exactly but potentially a completely different planet – it is jaw-dropping. Undulating mounds of pale-white spread out across the coastline whilst waves of the deep blue Aegean crash against the cliff faces – the contrast between the two is epic. Eternities of waves and wind have sculpted the volcanic rock into this smooth lunar-like landscape that seems to trick the mind into thinking the whole area is moving as one; the Cycladic sun blazes down and with no cover or trees in sight the surface glows throughout the day until the sun falls into the abyss. There is one small cove with a beachy area to swim but most people will just chuck a towel down on the rocks to cook themselves – there is next to no shade so please keep this in mind if you want to spend an afternoon down here. This is also a prime spot for cliff jumping, unfortunately the northern winds were still up from the previous day so the sea was particularly rough on my day, meaning a cliff-dive on this day would have made it my last day entirely. You can explore the ebbs and flows of the terrain and find some truly cinematic shots. Sarakiniko is truly otherworldly and a must on your Milos itinerary.
Just around the corner from Sarakiniko is the serene fishing village of Mandrakia. Home to its famous little harbour where colourful boathouses and fishing huts arch around the scenic cove, it is the perfect place to relax and enjoy true island peace. The differing levels of the dock, houses and steps to the Zoodochos Pigi Church provide platforms for you to sprawl out on and melt in the afternoon sun. The breeze that rounds the point gently cools you and I found myself drifting off atop an old bright blue boathouse. When the heat becomes too much you can just dive in from the dock ten feet away and cool down in the turquoise waters of the harbour. Mandrakia has one small café called Oasis Canteen that serves the freshest of orange juices, perfect to quench your thirst in the midday sun. This Instagram-worthy location also plays host to the well-known restaurant, Medusa; a beautiful seafood restaurant famous for its traditional dish of grilled octopus. It’s immaculate views across the bay make it a fantastic spot to stop at for lunch – they don’t do reservations so you can be lucky on a walk in and they’ll seat you immediately or they pop you on a waiting list and you can grab a drink or go for walk. Mandrakia really calms your soul and it is a perfect spot to both explore and wind down at.
As stated, you could spend a whole summer exploring the island’s rustic towns and quiet villages. Plaka, the main town of Milos, is a perfect addition to your travel plans. You can head up to Plaka Castle to observe the ridiculously gorgeous vista across the island or wander its whitewashed streets and dodge the overhanging bougainvillea for hours. There are numerous spots to grab some food and pleasant little shops tucked away to use up your euros. I recommend taking a trip to a winsome souvenir shop called Elli; I popped in here just for a quick look but couldn’t leave without picking up one of the wonderful canvas paintings on the wall. They were a collection of scenes from all over Milos, hand painted by the owner of the shop and its namesake, Elli. Each canvas had its own personality, I decided on a heart-warming A5 sized depiction of Klima to remember my time – Elli described the struggle of having to paint around the floods of tourists that walked across her view…she did fantastically nonetheless. Another great spot is Kokkino Podilato, a great place to grab some lunch, their pork gyros wrap is unbelievable. Generous portion sizes and a very friendly owner make it an easy place to take a break and enjoy the murmurs of the tranquil town. As a warning, Plaka does not have any parking in the centre of the town; it’s very traditional and they don’t want tourists screaming around with their rented vehicles. Don’t do what I did, which was take my quad up the hill, passing the no entry sign, to then be scolded by one of the locals who told me to park in the free parking area at the bottom of the town – to my defence the sign had a very small plaque which indicates no visitor parking, unreadable as you’re flying by and only seen on second inspection. I thought it was just for large goods vehicles as the town is so small, especially as the cars ahead of me were going straight past it, so I did the same…lesson learnt! Plaka is wonderfully endearing and a great location to add to your itinerary.
Milos offers many wonderful places to eat, on my final night I headed down to a traditional Greek restaurant that came highly recommended both online and by the locals. O! Hamos! Tavern is located just on the road behind Papikinou beach. There is a small free parking lot a short walking distance from the restaurant if you aren’t staying in Adamas – if you are just make the walk down, it’s not that far and means you can have an extra drink or three! They also don’t do reservations, they don’t need to as it’s always slammed. I turned up and was politely placed on the waiting list. As a warning the waiting time can be around 30-40 minutes, if you get there later into the evening this can extend to an hour, I arrived at around 7:15pm. Luckily you are able to wait on the beach just across the road, if you’re lucky you can grab a sunbed to chill out on; I just took one of the barstools, ordered a drink and watched the sun slowly set as deep shades of orange painted the shoreline. I was seated around 7:50pm, the waitress will simply shout your name so keep an ear out.
I think this might have been my favourite place to eat across my whole Greek adventure. If Mandrakia had calmed my soul, O! Hamos! warmed it. It’s traditional charm, quirky plates and unique décor fills you with comfort. What added to this was the brilliant menu, which is something most restaurants don’t spend much time on; O! Hamos! provides each table with a handwritten menu in several different languages, making it easy for wherever its guests may hail from, it also opens with a history of the restaurant and its family, who still run it to this day…so thoughtful. Speaking of history, one of the waiters also informed me that the tree with branches that wound its way along a small fence throughout the restaurant, had been there for decades, unchanged – this was swiftly after he stumbled over it. Kostas who was my server was excellent, I got another brief Greek lesson as I ordered my dish, helping me pronounce the Lamb Sourtoukiko that I ordered, which is a local variation of Kleftiko (the lamb dish not the place). I apparently nailed my pronunciation, he dubbed me an honorary Greek and I waited patiently for my food whilst I sipped on another glass of wine. The food itself…incredible, I demolished the lot, along with some bread and more wine. I paid up using the remainder of my euros which Kostas was very happy with; one because I gave him a good tip due to his excellent service and two because in Greece…cash is king! If you have the ability to pay in cash then do so, the locals will love you for it. This is due to the Greek government whacking on taxes to every element of hospitality involving a card payment; with cash they don’t get taxed at time of payment meaning everything goes to the vendor without a cost to them, you may also get some things for cheaper! I could eat at O! Hamos! for the rest of my life, the one occasion will have to do for now – go and check this place out, just ensure you wear something with an elastic waistband.
I finished my night with some drinks at Vira, a stylish cocktail bar in the centre of Adamas which I highly recommend. This place has a real relaxed atmosphere and a great view across the main square into the harbour. The cocktails are excellent, perfectly balanced, creative and exquisitely presented; the staff are really friendly in here and the music is also spot on. This is a great place to either start your night or finish it. For me, I watched the buzz of people dart around the streets below for a while as the stars slowly appeared, enjoyed several wonderful drinks and then meandered back to my apartment.
On my final morning in the Cyclades I packed up my backpack, said goodbye to the kittens and trekked down to the port to catch my ferry back to Athens and then…home. Of course I had to stop off at Artemis for one final freddo espresso and another donut. I got my goods and then plonked myself down at the port. As I sat on the bench looking out across the caldera, slowly sipping coffee, I retraced my time on Milos. For me, this island is so much more than what you see on social media. It’s a place that has real heart and it wants desperately to show and share that heart with whoever graces its harbours. It can do the high-end luxury holidaying if that’s what you want, but it can also do the wild adventure days out or the laid-back, easy-going stuff with the same class. Milos is well and truly on my ‘I have to come back here’ list…there is still so much more to discover on this wondrous island.
I can still taste the ouzo, efcharistó.
ACCOMMOdation
Miloessa was a great spot to make home for a few days. My host, Despina, was lovely and very helpful. She even runs a small gift shop attached the apartments. The addition of the Kittens, Stella and Stelios, give some evening entertainment – they will go after any snacks that you leave out! Just walking distance to the centre of Adamas and parking for my ATV made it very convenient. The apartment was clean, comfy and the bed was huge. Staying in other areas of the island comes with its costs, both financially and logistically; so Miloessa is a massive recommendation for your first time on the island.
Below is a link to the Miloessa website but you can also find it on booking.com:
getting around
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The main bus station of Milos sits right in the centre of Adamas, a short walk from the ferry port. From here, buses connect you all over the island at locations like Triovasalos, Plaka, Trypiti, Pollonia, Paliochori, Achivadolimni, Sarakiniko, and Provatas. They will also pass many smaller stops on the way — including access to some of the island’s beaches. Costing €2 (cash only), it’s an inexpensive mode of travel.
Be aware that drivers don’t always stop at the quieter stations unless requested. I would let the driver know in advance where you’d like to get off if it’s not a major stop.
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My experience hiring an ATV through Nicki Motors was great. When my first quad started making a funny noise I brought it back and they swapped it out there and then. They are affordable and as I said, they were happy to let me have the ATV and pay on return when the card machine wouldn’t work. I can’t recommend these guys more. The link to their website is below, you call also call up to reserve a vehicle or take the chance like I did and walk in:
There are countless other places to rent a car along Adamas’ waterfront if you want something bigger so no direct recommendation, take your pick!
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Like many of the other Greek islands, the taxis are the most expensive mode of getting around the island costing between €20-€45 depending on where you are going. There are a few ways to get hold of a taxi; you can flag one down a the main taxi ranks in Adams, Plaka and the local airport or you there are online services/apps like Aegean Taxi and Milos Taxi which make it easier to book a ride. Links below for these:
BEACHES
Enjoy discovering these ethereal havens along the coastline:
Platheina
Sarakiniko
Gerakas (Only accessible by boat)
Kleftiko (Only accessible by boat)
Tsigrado
Firiplaka
Mandrakia (Fishing Village)
Firopotamos
EAting & Drinking
Milos holds a delight of restaurants, cafes and bars that will ensure your plates are empty and your glasses are full:
O! Hamos! Tavern (Adamas) – Greek food and service on another level…go here
Gyros of Milos (Adamas) – Affordable and tasty
Foodies Beach Bar ‘Sunrise to Sunset’ (Plathiena) – Beautiful beach bites and a sea breeze
Medusa (Mandrakia) – Fantastic seafood with a great view
Oasis Canteen (Mandrakia) – The freshest of orange juice
Artemis Bakery (Adamas) – All that you will need..and coffee
Kokkino Podilato (Plaka) – Great gyros and staff
Vira Cocktail Bar (Adamas) – Stunning drinks with a stunning view
Boat Tours
THALASSITRA SAILING travel agency
If you want to go on a boat tour and you want something special, pick these guys. You will have the most unexpected fun and see some of the most mind blowing locations. I have core memories because of this tour, please go make your own:
nereides cruises
Even though I didn’t get to live my dream of sailing the high-seas myself, I advise going with this company if you want to book your own license-free boat for a day to explore the the far corners of the island. Nereides made it really easy to book and when they had to cancel they processed the refund efficiently and without issue. Fingers-crossed you are a little luckier than me!
So Milos brings my little Greek odyssey to a close. I spent all of two glasses of wine and a train ride in Athens, one day I’ll stay for longer and be able to write about the Hellenic capital. Nevertheless, I hope you’ve enjoyed coming along for my island hopping adventure and learning a bit about this amazing part of the world. It’s been wonderful to recount my steps and pass on a little bit of information, which I hope will help make your time around the Cyclades as incredible, if not better, than my own. I think I said this in a previous post but it has enabled me to feel like I’m still there…which I very much would like to be! There is something about the islands which are spellbinding; they change you for the better and you leave with treasured memories and yearn desperately to make more. As my plane left Athens airport I realised that Greece now holds a very special and large place in my heart for many different reasons. I am already planning my return to venture to several of the other 200-odd islands it offers and when I do, you will be the first to know about it. Until then, I’ll see what else the world has to offer and will keep you in the loop.
As always, thank you for taking the time.
Until the next journey.
M.
