The 2nd destination of my Greek odyssey takes me to an island not many people have heard of. A short ferry ride east from Paros lies the quiet island of Sifnos. I arrived as the evening slowly set in, after another delayed ferry, about 30 minutes this time so not too bad. I was staying on the other side of the island so was again greeted by a very patient taxi driver as I stepped off the boat. I unfortunately didn’t get his name, he was solely ‘Taxi Driver No.10’ as far as I knew him. As an early heads up, there are only ten taxi drivers on the whole island, I’ll put the link for them below; these guys are like gold-dust, if a boat is coming in then I’m sorry you have no hope of getting hold of them.

You arrive into the port of Kamares on the east of the island. The small port town sits within a vast cove cradled by towering rocky mountains, it takes your breath away a little. Restaurants, cafes and shops line the waterfront and wrapping around the bay is Kamares beach; with water that sparkles against the Cycladic sun and a stretch of golden sand dotted with sunbeds to lounge on and trees to hide under, this beach is an easy place to spend an afternoon. This would have to wait for me. I jumped in my taxi and headed off to my base for the next 3 days in a town on the western side of the island called Kastro.

The taxi ride in usual Greek fashion was a quick whistle stop guide to the island from my driver. As you’ll find out I should have been paying attention; however that is difficult when your gawping out the window transfixed on stunning sun-kissed hillsides dotted with clusters of whitewashed cubes and blue domes. I managed to come back to reality as we approached Kastro itself after about a 15 minute drive from the port. When you arrive to Kastro you aren’t quite sure what you’ve come across but you know it’s special. The village sits on top of a hill on the very edge of the island looking out into the Aegean. The sunset was setting as my taxi left me at the bottom of the town; he wasn’t keen on having to reverse all the way back down the hill to leave (I don’t blame him). At the top of the climb I found my Airbnb host waiting…again patiently. His name was Stavros, if I could sum this guy up it would be this, he is a class act and…HE LOVES SIFNOS! After showing me to my place he rattled off recommendations and advice for the island, according to him I needed 5 days to truly see Sifnos…unfortunately I would have to make do with my 3.

Kastro is a must do if you are considering coming to this lovely little island. The village has one small bakery called To Diporto, which is also the local café…which is also the souvenir shop…which is also where you can buy bottles of water, beer and importantly…wine. It has one mini market and this is small, stocked with only the basics, so if you want more supplies pick them up in the main town of Apollonia. There is also an endearing little clothes & jewellery shop just up from the café if you want to buy any wares. Kastro, and Sifnos as a whole, is home to some of the best restaurants across the islands. Below will be a list of a few great places to check out. One particular stand out for me was Astro, a traditional Greek restaurant just down from my Airbnb. Having arrived later into the evening they were really accommodating and sorted a table in a flash. This restaurant is like stepping into giagiá’s kitchen, serving wholesome Greek dishes that are very tasty. It’s on two levels, the main seating area is a veranda looking out into the mountains…absolutely stunning. The second is down on the street which is actually quieter, you’ll also be joined by the local felines who await any scraps of food. It’s reasonably priced and the staff are fantastic. The two waitresses work tirelessly there to keep customers happy, shooting up and down stairs with orders whilst flitting between Greek and English in a heartbeat…they were great.

Unfortunately on my first night here I was sat across from a particularly horrendous family. As I was waiting for my food and enjoying some local wine the father of the family decided to repeatedly click his fingers at one of the waitresses and beckoned her over like a dog. I have had this done to me when I used to wait tables, please be aware that if you are someone who acts like this, your order may have something a little extra in it... . He berated the poor girl for the remainder of the night, each time clicking his fingers at her. I was distracted from the insolence next to me by the arrival of my, mouth-watering and cooked to perfection, moussaka. Eventually this family left, leaving a mess behind them but I could see both girls breathe a sigh of relief. I left a decent tip this night, a very well deserved one.

You can see Kastro in roughly a morning or afternoon. I spent the following morning wandering the narrow streets and heading up to the Castle of Sifnos at the top of the village, where you can look out into the Aegean and surrounding mountains whilst learning a tiny chunk of history. A particularly special spot to go and see is the Church of the Seven Martyrs, a tiny blue domed chapel perched on the rocks on the other side of the village. Staring out into the abyss it is visually epic. Please be aware that there is a decent stair decent to get to it, roughly 160 steps, and it’s a tad windy but it’s damn worth it. The chapel only opens for special religious ceremonies or weddings so you can’t go inside but just spending some time down there it gives you a chance to pause and soak in just how wildly mind-blowing these islands can be. You can also get some fantastic photos - so good that they even might become the homepage of your travel blog… . There is also a passage just before the church to get down to the rocks below where on a calm day you could jump in the sea, this is a trek and I would only recommend if you are confident in the water and athletic enough to get in and out.

An easier option for taking a dip would be to head down to Seralia beach at the bottom of the village. He you’ll find a small platform on the left side of the bay in front of some old fishing huts, where you can chuck down a towel and dive off the shelf into cooling waters. I spent an afternoon down here reading and swimming, it’s marvellous, so peaceful and the sound of the waves lapping against the platform soothes you into an afternoon nap. You’ll be awakened by the scent of seafood wafting over the bay. Seralia is home to three magnificent fish restaurants; most famously Cantina, a rustic zero-waste, sustainable seafood spot with stunning views out across the pebble beach and waters. Stavros described this place as a ‘tasting experience’. Its fairly pricy and you need to have a reservation so if you want to check it out, book early! The other two spots are Captain Sifakis and Captain George. Both are brilliant but please be aware that to get to Captain George you have to walk down to the left of Captain Sifakis. I did not know this so stumbled upon Captain Sifakis thinking it was the latter. Was I disappointed?...hell no! I was welcomed by one of two brothers who own the restaurant, he proceeded to show me the catch of the day (caught by the other brother) and allowed me to pick out the fish I wanted for dinner. The food was amazing and the rooftop setting staring out into the horizon whilst I ate my freshly caught bream scratched an itch in my head that I’d had for a while. This place is fantastic, reasonably priced and fresh. Having spoken to Stavros, Captain George is of a similar strand serving day-caught fish ran by a sole fisherman, it has seating slightly closer to the water and the reviews are equally as great as Sifakis. If you get a chance please check out either.

When it comes to travelling around the island there is scooter and ATV hire but these are very limited – as I was only on the island for a couple of days I thought I’d save the money. There are a few car rental places, particularly in Kamares, if you do want your own ride. I chose to make use of the bus, costing between €2-€2.50 depending on destination, I’ll leave a link to the timetables below. Essentially, everything runs through the main town of Apollonia and then shoots off in different routes to get to other areas of the island. There were only a few buses a day from Kastro so I was up relatively early to go and explore. The bus stop in Kastro, highlighted by a blue bus stop sign, is located outside of the dessert and breakfast spot, Konaki – their baklava is spot on, it’s also the perfect sweet treat to end your night (even better if you’re a little tipsy). As I was waiting I noticed a gentleman putting up some signs for an art exhibition, I took a peek inside. I stumbled across an exhibit by a man called Jesus Labandeira, a Spanish artist spending his summer on Sifnos. I fell in love with his work immediately. He was super kind and took the time to chat with me about his art; it was a mix of polaroids and painted pieces. His paintings were on very unique paper which he had actually made himself during his time in Japan. In Greece, images are always overexposed due to the blinding white of the buildings and gleaming sunshine. He leaned into this and explained that the white of the paper he made blended with the subject he was painting – his art was the paper melding with the real world as he saw it; just captivating. If I had the cash in my pocket I would of taken it all, I had to settle for the miniature postcards of his pieces as a memento, as that’s all I could afford. One day I’ll find him again to ensure a much larger piece of his work hangs in my house. I bumped into him a few times, exchanging in broken spanish and him wishing me well. A lovely soul and one hell of an artist - I’ll leave a link to his socials below.

I eventually got on the bus and decided to explore Apollonia, Stavros had given me the run down but I wasn’t sure what to expect, having driven through it when I arrived it didn’t seem like much….how wrong I was. Apollonia is the capital of the island, split in two by the main road, the east side makes up the main bulk of the town, simply called the “Commercial Way” you head down a long narrow paved street where you are spoilt for choice. There are a number of delightful little shops selling handmade beach bags and pottery, laid-back bars, relaxing cafes and traditional restaurants; I’ll put down some recommendation below to look out for. One spot down here is Botzi 93, a café/bar that bleeds cool. I stopped off here for a freddo espresso whilst also trying their homemade lemonade, this hits the spot. The place is a blend of relaxed island life and Ibiza-like edge; it’s a burst of colours across whitewashed walls with quirky furniture to lounge around. There’s a rooftop terrace to watch the sun drop below the hills in the evening whilst you sip on chic cocktails. I loved this place, it was my type of vibe, especially because of the immaculate house playlist that sang through the whole place.

After I had explored the rest of the commercial way, I grabbed a quick bite from Vegeraki, the local Bakery, and sat down in the square to wait for my bus back to Kastro. This is a lovely little spot to chill out at to watch the world go by. As the resident birds flitted around my feet picking up the crumbs from my spanakopita I looked at my watch and realised that my bus was running late. There is a bus stop right in front of the square so I would have seen it pass by. I waited another 10 minutes and nothing. Finally after a 20 minute wait a bus arrived….but not my bus. The ticket girl on board stepped off and informed me that the stop for Kastro is actually located on the crossroads further up town. Suddenly something in my head clicked and I remembered my lovely taxi driver telling me this on my way in, he specifically pointed this out and told me “for Kastro…here”. Looking on the timetables, it does tell you this, I had just been too cocky and an idiot not to read the fine print or remember. The next bus was not for another two hours, it was getting particularly warm and I was yearning for the platform at Seralia. Luckily, after about 45 minutes of trying to get a ride home, one of the rare taxi drivers appeared in front of me like a mirage and she was able to take me back, all for €8. On getting back I headed immediately into the sea and heard a faint sizzle as I cooled off.

One highlight of Kastro and a go to spot on the island, is a bar called Kavos Sunrise. This is located at the south of the village on the cliff side and is home to a man that they simply call ‘The Cuban’. He is an old Greek man that is obsessed with Cuba. I was originally thinking, Havana nights, open-collared shirts and palm trees…not so much. This place is more Che Guevara, deep in the jungle and a shrine to rum. As you wander up to this bar, the steps are lined with tubs of empty Havana Club rum bottles, hundreds of bottles leading all the way to the front door. Here they serve two drinks and two drinks only, either a Mojito or a Cuba Libre, the best bit…they are €5 euros. I spent a long evening here on not a lot of money watching the sunset, although I did annoy the waitress confusing her with my very poor Greek, blame the rum. There are a few other amazing places here to drink and gaze at orange skies. Loggia Wine Bar sits just around the corner from Kavos; a picture-perfect spot offering a vast wine selection and beautiful views. In the summer you’ll need a reservation, it’s on the more expensive side as they charge by the glass but it could be a lovely way to finish your time on the island.

On my final day, I hopped on the bus down to Faros, I originally wanted to get up to Cherinissos Beach in the north which is stunning but all the taxis were booked up due to the boats - there was an influx of arrivals due to the winds cancelling ferries the day before which is a common occurrence so be aware. Faros is a small harbour town located in the southwest corner of Sifnos strewn with lime-coated houses surrounded by goats, chickens and olive trees. To get here I had to stop off in Artemonas for a bit, I grabbed some breakfast at a spot called Smaragdi near the bus stop, this place was perfect and the fresh bowl of fruits, nuts and yoghurt went down a storm. The chilled-out vibes and a good coffee eased me into my day. Check this place out if Artemonas is on your list. I ambled around the small town for 30 minutes, in the usual fashion of filling my camera roll with photos of whitewashed streets, then jumped on my second ride down the island. Faros is timeless, sheltered, seaside-life incarnate. It has a handful of delightful tavernas, cafes and a local mini market which also runs as a food spot looking out into the harbour; this funnily enough is also called Captain George and is a great place to sit down for a bite to eat. There’s very little traffic here and the most noise comes from the local birds. It is home to several wonderful beaches, Faros beach, Fassolou and Vlichó, I chose the latter which in my opinion is the better of them all. Vlichó is quiet and secluded, it is not the sandiest but it’s lined with trees to shy away from the sun if needed and pristine wates to bob around in. Several catamarans and sloops had anchored here to hide from the winds, so the scene from the shoreline was postcard worthy. I spent a couple hours here melting in the sun and then ventured slowly back to Kastro through winding roads.

Once I arrived back in Kastro I quickly headed up to To Diporto to grab a coffee and a bottle of wine for later. I attempted to order in my broken Greek and got into a discussion with my server. Stavros had introduced me to him before, not by name but just by the title of “Sunglasses” purely because he always wore them, even inside. I felt bad for not asking his actual name but he liked it so I went with it. Sunglasses asked if I was Greek or if I was living in Greece from what I could understand, I explained that I wasn’t and that I was trying to pick up a little bit of the language. I then got a very quick, very useful Greek lesson from him as he made my 485th freddo espresso of my trip so far. I paid for my drinks and as I was about to leave he stopped me, leaning in he asked….“Do you drink alcohol?” to which my reply was “Yes, I’m British.” He then turned to the refrigerator behind him and slowly pulled out wine bottles to reach something hidden at the very back. Out of the fridge came a 2 litre unlabelled plastic bottle with a mysterious clear liquid inside it. He whipped out some shot glasses, poured out the drink and handed one over to me. His response to me asking what it was I was holding was simply…“water”. We toasted in the usual Greek tradition “Yamas!” and it went down the hatch. What he had given me was his very own homemade, rocket fuel-like raki, a similar type spirit to ouzo. I held my nonchalant facial expression as my chest burned (my mother raised me right), gratefully shook his hand and waved him goodbye. It turns out trying the local lingo can get you a free drink so…learn a word or two, even if you think your rubbish, it might just lead to something fun.

The next day I left early to depart, jumping back in a taxi to Kamares. Whilst waiting for my ferry I strolled into a local pottery shop just up from the port. The owner was very friendly, so much so that when a Dutch tourist came rushing in asking about how to get his injured son up to the nearest hospital in Apollonia, he simply gave him the keys to his own car and told him to bring it back when he was done…oh the Greeks. I picked up a new coffee cup for home, fresh out the kiln, he wished me well and I planted myself at the end of the port ready for the next stop.

As I sat resting against my now much heavier backpack, I was able to ponder on Sifnos. This island is the perfect refuge from the chaos of life. Time seems to stretch here with everything ticking over a second or two slower. It’s a place where sitting down for drinks slips into sunsets and the simplicity of it all feels like luxury. From the locals that treat you like family to the other-worldly views, it’s a destination that tugs on a part of your soul, the part that makes you feel like you’re leaving a friend. Sifnos whispers instead of yelling and makes it very easy to listen.

Thank you for the calm, the new friends…and the cheap drinks.

ACCOMMODATION

My little base for the short stay was perfect, exactly what I needed. I had my own terrace looking out over the hills and into the Aegean. The studio was pristine and it was only a short walk down into the centre of Kastro. Stavros makes this place a must; his recommendations and advice for the island was top-notch and he brings an energy on your arrival that sparks your excitement to discover and soak in the island. He’s brilliant and did I mention that he loves Sifnos?

Below is the link to his website but you can also find his apartments on booking.com as well:

https://athinahouses.gr/

getting around

The buses are good, priced at €2-€2.50 depending on where you are going. Tickets are purchased on the bus. Times can be particular depending where you are staying or trying to get to. Read the timetables in depth and make sure you know where they stop. If you get stuck, ask a local, they are always happy to help.
https://www.roomsinsifnos.com/useful/bus-schedules
I avoided hiring transport just due to time/money, however there are a few places where you can rent a vehicle if you fancy exploring on your own terms. Below is a quick list of just some to check out:
https://suntrail.gr/index.html
https://apollorental.gr/our-fleet/
https://loukatarisrentals.gr/
https://sifnosbikexperience.com/ (This is an E-Bike rental place if you fancy a pedal)
As mentioned there are 10 taxi drivers on the whole island and they are hard to get hold of if the boats are coming in/out. You can call them directly or use text/WhatsApp, it can be a little hit or miss sometimes but just be persistent and keep trying them, don’t be offended if they say they can’t or don’t reply/pick up – they tend to favour requests for port pick-ups/drop offs. Prices range from €5-€35 depending where you are heading. They also stop off at taxi ranks in the larger towns so you can jump in if they are free:
https://www.roomsinsifnos.com/useful/taxi

beaches

There are some great locations to sprawl out and soak up the sun. Sifnos doesn’t flaunt it’s beaches which is part of the attraction, here are just a few worth exploring:

Kamares

Vlichó

Vathi

Apokofto

Seralia (The Platform)

Platis Gialos

eating & Drinking

This island lives and breathes food, so no matter where you end up you’ll be fed well and your thirst will be quenched, here are a few to look out for but there is plenty more to find:

Astro Restaurant – Traditional Greek with great service

Cantina (Kastro) – A seafood tasting experience

Captain Sifakis (Kastro) – Fresh seafood, welcoming staff and a great view

Captain George (Kastro) – One man band, similar to Sifakis

Smaragdi (Artemonas) – A great breakfast spot

Botzi 93 (Apollonia) – Chilled vibes, great drinks and just…cool.

Bostani (Between Kastro + Artemonas) – High-end dining, Stavros’ favourite

Café Captain George (Faros) – Great spanakopita and lovely staff

Kavos Sunrise (Kastro) – Rum, rum and more rum, plus an amazing view

Loggia Wine Bar (Kastro) – More stunning views and a great wine selection

Konaki (Kastro) - For your sweet tooth

To Diporto (Kastro) - Great coffee, great people and vital if you are staying in Kastro

Café Stavros (Kamares) – Relaxed, comfy seating, tasty bites next to the port

Jesus Labandeira

Check this guy’s work out and follow his journey on Instagram, he described this as his diary - https://www.instagram.com/jesuslabandeira82/

This cluster of hills floating in the Aegean is something special. Sifnos is the perfect stop to wind down and enjoy the simpler side of life. Its intimacy and tradition are spellbinding—you find yourself forgetting your phone, your emails… even life back in the “real” world. I took the slow ferry when I left, and I’m glad I did; I sat on the top deck, watching the island gradually shrink into the horizon. I knew then I’d return—one day. Hopefully this is enough to convince you to include Sifnos in your own island-hopping adventure. You won’t regret it.

Thank you for taking time to read about my little exploration.

Until the next journey

M.